This past weekend a few of us here in Texas attended a
mid-19th Century shoe making workshop conducted by Cody Mobley at
Pioneer Farms in Austin. First I wish to say how gracious the site is for
hosting us for our workshop and events. They allowed us to use their structures
for the workshop and to stay in for the weekend. I also put out many kudos to
Cody for volunteering to lead this workshop and producing the patterns and
soles. He is a great instructor and an asset to the hobby!
The workshop began in Saturday morning but some of us stayed
the night on Friday on site. Staying at the site is always a wonderful
convenience. The braying of the donkeys singing us to sleep and the thumping of
the site cat, Peanut Butter, running down the hall of the Bell house to wake us
up.
 |
| soaking soles |
The workshop was held at the Aynesworth house. We went up
early to make sure all was ready and set the soles to soaking. Not everyone
that had registered attended but we had, including Cody, 13, I think. Cody
started out giving us an overview of the tools and materials used. Cody
provided the necessary needles and threads. He had, prior to the workshop,
produced sized patterns for our uppers. So we then started cutting out our uppers
from the fabric we chose. I had chosen a green wool. It is a beautiful fabric.
Once they were cut we started sewing them together with a back stitch. After
the uppers were together we attached the toe and heel foxing and then the heel
stiffener. For easier sewing the stiffeners were soaked prior to sewing. The
foxing was sewn with a straight stitch and the stiffener just whip stitched.
 |
| Foxing attached |
At lunch break I took Cody to a local Joanne’s to get cotton
drill for the linings as he didn’t receive his order in time. Yes, we went in
period dress. The looks!! It was hilarious. One woman obviously buying her
Halloween costume, looked at us and said “You obviously have this costuming
thing down, what do you think of this?"
 |
| Upper lined and bound |
After we got back Cody started cutting out the linings as we
finished up the uppers, foxing and stiffeners. Then we stitched the lining in
the same way as the uppers. Once done we basted the lining to the uppers at the
top, along the bottom and the side slit. The top and slit edges were then
bound. We were given the option of using cotton tape or Cody would strip some
of our fabric for binding. I chose to use the tape as a contrast. This is about
as far as I got the first day. It doesn’t sound like much but sewing on the
leather took quite a bit of time. So closed the first day of the workshop.
That evening some of us decided to out to dinner rather than
stay on site. We all wanted large classes of water and tea. Yup, in period
dress and more funny looks. When we returned to Pioneer Farms we all went to
our respective structures for the evening. Vicki and I shared the Bell house.
The evening was warmer than the night before and it was hard to get to sleep.
Later in the evening a man who had been walking his dogs down the dry creek
that runs into the property called out and said he couldn’t figure out how to
get out of the site. Apparently the women in the cabin had a skunk experience
that night and the gentlemen in the barn dealt with the horses, so fun all
around.
The next morning we got up early; Vicki had brought her suffragette
outfit and I wanted a picture. It is so cute! She looks so perfect in it.
 |
| Vicki Betts suffragette |
The
workshop started again at 9:00 and the day was already hat and humid. We lost a
couple of participants and a couple more came but not in period dress; it was
just too hot. This day consisted of the sole and turning the shoe. It was also
museum day and the site was open free with several other activities going on,
so there were tons of visitors coming in and out watching what we were doing.
 |
Attaching the sole
|
Cody had already made the soles, punched and grooved them
for us. He also started the threads attaching the sole. The sole was attached
using a walking stitch consisting of two threads and needles. This, for me, was
the most difficult part of the process. Even though the soles were soaked, the
sewing was tough and I didn’t get the hang of the stitching right off. But I
got it done.
 |
| Sewing the toe |
 |
| Turning the shoe |
The shoe was then set out to soak for a bit before it was
put on the foot and the toe sewn and trimmed. Getting this wet wool over the
stocking feet was a chore. We all laughed as we struggled to get the shoes on.
Cody sewed the toes and then the shoe was set to soak again for easier turning.
Cody also turned them for us. Once turned, the shoe was put on again, more
struggle and laughter. This was done to stretch the wool to the foot. Since we
didn’t have the eyelets done yet, Cody stitched the slits up as if laced. We
left the shoes on until they dried. Once dried they slipped right on, no
struggle.
 |
| Turned shoe |
 |
| Garrett's slippers |
Most of us only got one shoe done, minus the lacing eyelets.
Rather than lacing I’m putting elastic in mine for gaiters as my ankles are
bigger than the pattern and lacing would be impractical. Vicki and Garret both
finished their shoes and slippers respectively.
 |
| Vicki's shoes |
 |
| Mine |
I really enjoyed the workshop even though my fingers hurt and
I allowed myself to become dehydrated. Thanks much again to both Cody and
Pioneer Farms for making the workshop possible!
Additional photos can be found here.
Y'all have to come back after March 4th or so to get the details.