Sunday, September 14, 2014

Sleeve Workshop



This past weekend I attended a sleeve and undersleeve workshop in Gettysburg put on by Carolann Schmitt through her company, Genteel Arts Academy. In addition to these periodic workshops throughout the year, Carolann produces the Civilian Symposium at Harrisburg in March.

The workshop is held in the community rooms of the Gettysburg fire station. There is plenty of parking and lots of room for sewing machines and ironing boards. Since I live about two hours from there I went ahead and decided to stay over for the weekend. I stayed at the Days Inn just outside of town on Highway 30. It's a fine, standard hotel, but the breakfast left a lot to be desired--no protein at all. If you have time and really want breakfast go the Perkins just in front of the hotel. I roomed with Polly Steenhagen and we had a great time.

I really love going to Gettysburg, even if I don't make it to the battlefield. It's a lovely drive and I just like the town. I decided to take the long way on Highway 30. It's a bit more scenic than the tollway, but goes through a lot of little towns with stop lights, traffic and low speed limits.

When I arrived in town, I went to the hotel and checked in and made sure Polly would have no issues when she arrived. I then headed to Needle and Thread. I decided I really want a new ballgown for the Steamboat ball in October, so I went with the intention of getting ballgown fabric, which I did and so much more. So here is the silk taffeta for the ballgown.


I also found a silk/cotton blend fabric for undersleeves. I had brought some fabric with the intention of using it for the undersleeves, but this new stuff is beautiful. Such a soft hand! I wasn't sure it would work since it was so airy and not very stiff, but they turned out beautiful!

Polly also arrived at Needle and Thread while I was there. She also bought fabric and trim for undersleeves. After leaving there we decided to drop in at the Button Baron. Their storefront in Gettysburg is only open by appointment, so we called first to be sure they would be there. They were in the process of packing up for Pilot Knob, but there was still plenty of things in the shop...and TONS of buttons. Polly and I each found buttons we had to to have. I found four gold plated buttons and four small black whistle buttons. If you don't know what whistle buttons are, they only have one hole on the top and then two on the bottom.


I will use the whistle buttons on my undersleeves. I also picked up some beeswax for sewing. I much prefer the homemade cubes to the stuff you find at fabric stores.

Polly and I had dinner at the Farnsworth House Tavern. The food is pretty good and there are props from the movie Gettysburg. They also play the movie like other bars play sports. Poor servers there must really be tired of that movie. All the servers are dressed in pseudo Civil War clothes, long skirts, white blouses, pinner aprons with safety pins and snoods. But as I said the food is pretty good. We then retired to the hotel to sew, knit and read.

The workshop hours are 8:00 to 5:00 both Saturday and Sunday. Carolann starts the workshop with a lecture and slide show on different kinds of sleeves and undersleeves. She then brings out originals for us to look at. Lori Martin had also brought some of her original undersleeves. Serious eye candy time. Below are only a few of the originals we got to get up close and personal with.

















Carolann also brought several examples of different styles of dress sleeves.





















Our handouts included instructions for making all these different sleeves and undersleeves. Maggie Koenig also drafted patterns from the original undersleeves and the different bodice sleeves, which we could purchase. I bought all the patterns.

I decided, based on the fashion plate I'm using for my Steamboat dress, that a simple cuffed, full undersleeve would be best. There is no pattern for these included as they are basically two rectangles; however, the instructions to create the "pattern" are included with the handouts. I also choose my ball gown sleeve, which was included with the patterns. The patterns are sized from the original so they must be resized to fit. Maggie is very good at this as it is what her degree is in, so she was a big help getting the ballgown sleeve resized for me.

The rest of Saturday was taken up sewing on the undersleeves. I decided to just gather them into the cuff, again keeping it simple, and using elastic in a casing at the top. Carolann mentioned during her talk that thin elastic was used in undersleeves to keep them up. I was very glad to hear this as I really hate basting or pinning them in.














Saturday evening a few of us went to O'Rorke's for dinner, visited the chocolate shop across the street and wandered down Steinwehr. Then back to the hotel for more sewing and reading.

Sunday started at 8:00 again. Carolann brought a few of her original dresses for us to look at. Sorry, I did not get any pictures as I was busy sewing to finish my undersleeves.








I still need to make the button hole, add the button and insert the elastic in the upper cuff. I think they will work very well with my Steamboat dress.

Carolann's workshops are so much fun. Could I have done this on my own? Probably, but I wouldn't have the patterns, nor the face to face assistance with suggestions and encouragement available at the workshop. I know I was not the only one there that found this very helpful. I highly recommend these workshops for anyone interested in sewing period clothes, whether you are a beginner or experienced.

I am now going to be working on my Steamboat dress and ballgown full steam but will return to Gettysburg in October to take Carolann's cage crinoline class! No more duct tape for me!

Thursday, September 11, 2014

Bodice Done

...except for the trim. Now to the skirt.




Coming Together

The bodice is shaping up. Need to put in the sleeves, but first need to make piping. The trim will be added to the bodice once the skirt is attached so that it is one continuous piece. I really like how this fabric is making up for this dress.








Tuesday, September 2, 2014

Getting Out There

A couple of weeks ago, I visited the Chester Co. Historical Society. On their rack of event information was a card for an event honoring the 97th Pennsylvania Infantry at a park just a block or two up from where I am currently staying in West Chester, PA. The event will include an encampment of the 97th Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry reenactment group out of Downingtown, PA, not too far from West Chester. So I contacted them and asked if I could visit with them at the event. It has been so long since I've played dress up and really need a fix. It just so happened that they had a unit meeting coming up and invited me to attend.

So tonight I drove over to Downingtown and was warmly welcomed by the group. This group only has a few civilian participants. I really enjoyed the meeting and the people. I think I'm still in culture shock, though, as they were discussing going to Antietam and Gettysburg and the Lincoln funeral train and I realized that this was now doable for me!

Sunday, August 31, 2014

Steamboat Dress Fitting Three

After incorporating Maggie's adjustments, here is the last fitting. I found that I still needed to take in the waist an inch or so but other than that it's perfect! Just for clarification, I did not use Simplicity 1818 to make this. I developed my own pattern based on the fashion plate from Godey's.

You'll notice the V is deeper and the waist is straight along with a few other differences. So, here is the last mock up before I cut the fashion fabric. I should state that the dress itself will not have the seam down the middle of the back.



Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Bodice Mock up

I have cut out the mock up for my Steamboats dress. In the process I realize I have lost some weight since the last time I used my bodice pattern block. Fitted it once on my own, made another mock up and decided to get help fitting it again. Since I am now in Pennsylvania, I took a drive to Gettysburg and visited with Maggie Koenig for a fitting. I am rather proud of my patterning skills, never having had a second hand to help with fitting. Oh was I seriously under a misconception. I put on the mock up and Maggie started pulling and pinning and drawing and cutting. She moved darts and shoulder seams. Took in side seams. Wow! It felt so much better! Of course I didn't take pictures during the process, but I do have a couple of the outcome. Hopefully you can see all the changes she made. Now I have a perfectly fitted bodice pattern!



Friday, August 15, 2014

I'm Baack!!

Yes, it has been a while since I posted. Had some life changes, moved to Pennsylvania. But now I'm back and will again resume posting on my living history activities! As you may remember, I am attending Steamboats A'Comin' in Louisville KY in October. So of course I'm making a new dress.

I had no time before moving to start working on the pattern. I know, relatively last minute sewing. And since I seriously down sized before leaving Texas I needed to find a cutting table here in Pennsylvania before I could even start on the pattern. I was able to find a "hobby table" at Joann's and at half price! I really like it; it works well so far for me. I started on the pattern today. This dress will be machine sewn to save time (if I can remember how to use my machine). I had hoped to make a chemisette and a ballgown, not to mention finishing out the straw bonnet I bought. Not sure this will all get done. The day dress and bonnet for sure but I will probably have to make do with what I have for everything else.

So stay tuned for updates on the dress and the event.